Sunday, 18 October 2015

Khaeeri - The Tigress from Simlipal Forests, Mayurbhanj. Odisha



'KHAIRI'- THE TIGRESS.

A documentary by Doordarshan (Abhijit Dasgupta- Director/Producer)

Abhijit Dasgupta was one of the most talented and prolific director/producers who were with Doordarshan from the late seventies to early nineties. He made some memorable and award-winning documentaries. “Khairi” the tigress, was one of them. Abhijit gives us a candid narration about the sweat and fears that went into the making of this docu. Read on...

I read in a news paper that a Forest Officer in Orissa has a pet tigress. And she roams about free.  This can be a good documentary. I write to Cuttack Doordarshan. Do they know something about this Forest Officer?

I get a reply in about a fortnight. One Mr. Swaraj Raj Chaudhury has a tigress. They live in Joshipur in the Mayurbhanj district. That’s all.

I write a proposal to do a documentary. I get the note sheet back. With this scanty information it is “not desirable” to send a full crew. So, I decide to travel by public bus and just take a hand-cranked Bolex camera. Ranajit Ray is my cameraman. We board a Orissa bound bus. These buses keep on loading passengers until even the roof top is full. Half-cooked, half suffocated, we get down at Joshipur. After an hour of enquiries to all and sundry, we arrive unannounced at the forest bungalow in a cycle-rickshaw. It is a long rickshaw drive from Joshipur. We introduce ourselves. Also mention we have no place to stay. The Forest Officer Mr. Swaraj Raj Chaudhury allows us to occupy a room adjoining his room. We talk for half an hour or so. He gives us tea and tells us a fascinating story. There is no sign of any tigress. I was about to ask politely whether we’d get to see this tigress when we heard a low growl near the door. Ranajit and I stare in shock as a full-grown Royal Bengal tigress strolls in casually. It is easy to watch a tiger in the zoo or on film or even in a circus. But even after getting an assurance that she is a pet, it is not a calming sensation when we had to literally rub shoulders with this Jungle Beauty. We realize, we have been offered Khairi’s room. Khairi is the tigress and her parents are Swaraj Babu and his wife. She will sleep with us – if she desires!

Luckily for us, Khairi sleeps with Mr. Chaudhury that night. 

With our existing scanty sources of light, Ranajit shoots till midnight. I take many photographs. We shoot in the morning and take a bus back to Kolkata in the afternoon.  I do a 15 minute item in a programme called “Youth Time”. It becomes a sensation. Letters pour-in in hundreds. I send my photographs to Amateur Photographer in London. They immediately publish a story.

I give a fresh proposal for a full-fledged documentary. I enclose the hundreds of letters and a copy of the magazine in the file. Finally, I get the nod. This time I will get a sync camera, sound-recordist and even the editor - Satyendra Mohanty in the team (as I had cleverly written in my proposal that Mohanty was from Orissa and therefore would be invaluable in terms of local flavour!)

We are given a hired ITDC Ambassador.  It’s the first time the driver will be driving in the highway. So I sit in front, just in case…  

There is a short ghat road. The driver applies the brakes and switches off the engine.

“I was not told that I have to drive in the hills.”

“This is no hill. It’s a short ghat road.”

He refuses. So  I drive.

We reach the bunglow. I had sent a telegram. Two rooms in a forest bungalow adjoining the one occupied by Mr. Chaudhury have been reserved for us. The toilet is just across the compound next to a well. Tapan Guha Thakurta is the cameraman this time. The bearded Sanjay Mukherjee is the sound recordist. Mohanty is with us too. The driver and his assistant will sleep in the car.

We go to Mr. Chaudhury’s bunglow. I introduce the team members. Mrs. Chaudhury brings in a tray full of biscuits and tea. We will be here for four days and plan the shoot extensively. I am told that a German television team is likely to come anytime.

“Call the drivers also. Let them have tea.” Mr. Chaudhury tells us.

The two come in and sit.

We talk about Khairi’s behavioral patterns.

“Are we going to see a tiger?” – the driver asks, giving me a suspicious look.

Just then, Khairi enters the room. I have never seen such panic, such fear. I see the man looking at certain death. The tea-cup falls and breaks.

“Don’t panic.” Mr. Chaudhury tells him.

But who hears? The drivers are lifeless stone statues shaking from the pedestal.

Khairi first goes to Mohanty and sniffs him. She stares at him for a while. Possibly recognizes another Oriya and moves to Sanjay. Sanjay is sitting stiff. Khairi’s face is one inch from Sanjay’s face. And then Khairi starts licking his beard. We see tightly shut eyes and a face that cannot be described. Sanjay’s beard must not have tasted too good and she moves towards the drivers. They open their mouths simultaneously in a silent, panic stricken howl. Khairi looks at them disdainfully and goes away.

The first person to talk is Mohanty. “I think Khairi doesn’t brush her teeth.”

Sanjay joins in. “She has never brushed. What a stink!”   Sanjay gets up and goes to the well to wash his face. We talk about our shooting schedule.

“Sir we will go to Joshipur market to check the car-tyres.”

Mr. Chaudhury tells them to return before dark.

We hear the Ambassador start and accelerate. The sound fades away. Never again do we hear the sound of the car in this trip. The drivers never return. Even driving through the ghat at night must have been a lesser risk for them.

“So we cannot move from here.” I tell Tapan.

“We can walk to Joshipur and book a call.” Tapan ventures.

“Walk for three hours and wait half a day for the call to come.” – Sanjay retorts.

We shoot almost nonstop -  early morning to late evening.

On the second night, a car comes. A German cameraman and his girl friend are shooting tigers at night. They use an intensifier on the camera. With that, he can shoot with the tip of a cigarette giving enough light to take a group photograph. The whole night they shoot Khairi roaming about in and around the bunglow. Early morning, they bid good bye and leave.

Mr. Chaudhury offers to take us to the deep jungle. Khairi will also travel with us in the jeep. It is a remarkable trip. The murmur of the rustling leaves as Khairi sashays regally; the pug marks she leaves behind and the serenity of the green forest leave an indelible mark on us.

The next day, after a bath at the well Mohanty hangs his towel to dry on the mosquito net stand.

Sanjay has been checking the sound. He leaves the recorder on the bed and comes out to stretch and smoke.

The forest guard who accompanies Khairi calls us. Khairi is on the bed watching the recorder. If she tries to feel the machine with her paw, there will be nothing left of the machine. 

The guard shoos her away from the machine. Khairi does not like that. She notices Mohanty’s towel. With one bite she brings it down, pees on it... relieved, she goes away.

“That’s my only towel” laments Mohanty. “Where will I get another towel here?”

We complete the shooting. Mr. Chaudhury offers to drive us to Jamshedpur. We can take a train back from there.

We book a call to Doordarshan. It takes thirty minutes for the call to come through.

“Why are you taking a train from Jamshedpur, didn’t you take a car?” Mr. Satish Garg the Assistant Station Director asks.

“Please send a car to Howrah station. I will tell you on return.” I reply

We arrive at the Howrah station around 10 PM. Mira Mozoomdar (the Head of Calcutta Doordarshan) and Mr. Garg are standing on the platform.

Mira Mozoomdar looks very worried.  

“What on earth has happened? I hope all is well?  Abhijit has these peculiar habits of taking risks. Going to shoot a tiger of all things…” Mr. Garg gives us a conspiratorial smile.

In the car, we tell her of our adventures including the drivers who had deserted us. 

“Don’t pay their bill” she tells Mr. Garg. “And Abhijit, you should have warned them. They could have had a heart attack seeing a large tiger.  I know I would have!”

It is a good documentary. I want special music composed for it.

Those who recorded the whole night at the Prasad studios are the composers Y S Mulki and Anto Menezes with their team of musicians. All for the kingly sum of Rs 100/- each).

How can I ever thank them?

As far as I know, the car bill never came.

As for Khairi, she was never released a la “Born Free”. She died of a bite from a scared dog in the village near where she had lived with her beloved foster-parents – Mr. and Mrs. Swaraj Roy Chaudhury.


Wednesday, 8 July 2015

Hyderabad: The story of Lulu


Yet again it’s Hyderabad. The city of Nizams, hi-tech youngies, beautiful hussain sagar lake, mouthwatering biryani and hundreds of years old history. Hyderabad comes across to its population very warmly. People have the vigour and energy of a south Indian and the soft manners of a Muslim. It’s in no way rude, of course individual experiences are bound to differ. Being a villager at heart and a small town boy in upbringing I feel comfortable in this old world, as Hyderabad never gives you the dead feeling of an Indian metro like Delhi does(again, it’s all about personal experience). The rush and the hustle and bustle of the old city are so contrary to the posh and dreamy locations of Banjara Hills and Jubilee hills. Move to Hi tech city and suddenly the air is charged with a Gurgaon or Bangalore or Navi Mumbai like smell of churning software in the IT transnational offices towering the heights of the city.

The recent one was my third trip to this place. And I tell you, standing contradictory to all the praises that I have made for this city, I hate this place. It haunts your sinister designs and outsmarts your satanic desires- All women are clad in dark burqas. Could anything be more tormenting than desperately wanting to know what is behind that black veil, especially when you have already had a glance of the milk white skin around the eyes and the slight show of palms? The Satan in a man and his sexual desperation finds a resting place nowhere but only when he knows he is not a satan. I haven’t known it yet, thankfully. I roam the city paying visits to NGO partners, gobbling up delicious food- feels so human to eat anything on earth which doesn’t sound like chhole-Bhature or Rajma chawal. The bill boards displaying and boasting of Hyderabadi haleem and Biryani can be seen everywhere, must remember it’s the sacred month of Ramadan.

Two years back it was Ramadan and it was Hyderabad, but it was no celebration, it was no checking out the bountiful women, it wasn’t about the food either. It was a project assigned to me by an extended family- my family. The word project, because I had no emotional connect with the cause; it was a task which was supposed to be done with a finesse of project implementation, the dedication to ensure result, positive result. Those days, I had named it Project- Lulu.  

My father is the eldest son among seven children, four sons and three daughters of my grandparents. One of my uncles in the year 2001 had succumbed to the injuries of the gender and the society he was born to. His colossally unforgivable original sin was that he had a love relationship with a woman, who he later realized was not worth marrying. But fear of defamation of being in an affair with a woman prior to marriage and later not marrying her and instead being married to some other woman is an unpardonable crime to a man who has a social repute and belongs to an extremely well known family in the district. A man is supposed to stand up to being a man always, whether he wants it or not. A man always has to be the fore bearer of the family’s reputation, whether he even connects to it or not. So, just in case he finds all this too much, he makes a narrow escape- through a nasty suicide, ten days before his marriage. Lalu kaka(uncle) left his body to be carried by my father and others to a place where his body would be burnt. Ironies of the gender and social norms are questions of life and death in the Indian society.

Project Lulu kicked off with a call from Papa to me on a rainy July evening. Then I stayed in Kundra, a village of Koraput(Odisha), fifty km from Koraput town. Papa asked me if I could take his brother, my uncle-Lulu to Hyderabad for a medical checkup. Lulu kaka was third in line of brothers. A successful LIC agent in the region, well paid and with a name in town like no other, a regular goer and organizing member of the district athletic association, a past record of national Youth club membership. A master of a unique sense of humor and an extremely accomplished event organizer and manager.  Papa had aslo made him the editor of the periodical which was published by my father’s efforts as he headed the Zilla Lekhak Parishad (district association of writers).  His acumen at keeping cool in any situation howsoever is a hard to find phenomenon, which he had mastered by some past life grace, probably.

Lulu kaka’s debacle of career and social status happened by the virtue of a tryst with the legal authorities, he could have been jailed but Papa; as usual an influential man saved him. He went through phases of financial and personal breakdowns ruining him from inside and outside. He hit the bottle. Drank to his heart’s content, drank until he was penniless, and drank until his liver gave up.
Following my father’s direction, I enquired about the best gastroenterology places in Hyderabad. Asian Institute of Gastroenterology turned out to be the perfect bet. I booked an appointment with the hospital over phone and reached Balangir(my home town). A family of intimidated and timid lesser humans wanted me to save this man, by some magical hospital I had figured out in Hyderabad. I left for Hyderabad with Lulu Kaka in the Nagavali express which ran between Sambalpur(Odisha) and Nanded(Maharashtra). He was no more the athletic, not at all a man of charm, and nowhere close to healthy. Alcohol had burned his very existence to ashes much before he could be cremated. His hands and legs shivered and trembled, his eyes were red like blood spilling out of them and demeanor of a frightened child, desperately crying for help.

We reached Hyderabad early in the morning and left for the hospital for the checkups. His eccentric behavior in the train had left me puzzled; he acted more like a mental patient than a damaged liver. The tests of the day at the hospital revealed the gory details of what alcohol had done to him.  He had passed the phase of Fatty liver and slipped into a condition called Alcoholic Hepatitis and was highly susceptible to slip to the last stage of Liver Cirrhosis. The day was spent empty stomach not just by him, but also me, found no time to grab a bite. But still, I was happy I could manage to call up Maa wishing her happy birthday- it was 6th August.  The day ended to be resumed the next day for more tests.

We retired for the day; my back gave me the ache of my lifetime. I barely had three hours of sleep. It was 3am and Lulu kaka was up doing some Puja(ritual), next moment he was looking for a place to go for a walk, in the next five minutes he discovered there was some lady in the bathroom and she should be driven out, he wanted paan, he wanted me to open the gate for his mother who was there to meet him. He spit on the door.  The state he was in, is medically termed as- withdrawal. A situation when the body is suddenly deprived of the regular dose of intoxicant. And the body and mind function in noncooperation and the behavior goes through massive disorientations. My management skills and patience levels were pushed to the threshold humanly possible. I waited and managed the whole early hours for sun to dawn and the clock to strike 9, so that I could take him to Hospital. Not because I wanted him to be cured but because I was feeling tormented and exhausted doing the whole management of the crisis for the last 6 hours.

The hospital sent him through a plethora of tests trying to determine the whole situation he was in. We were sent to two other hospitals for psychiatric tests and consultations. The tests of the liver, the stomach and kidneys put up a dismal show. All his organs had cried their hearts out, begging mercy from the merciless alcohol. The organs had died an unnatural death, forced to die. The human who contained these organs was still alive because organs are lesser contributors than blessings for a man’s survival. Lulu kaka was alive because prayers were still effective than factory made medicines. This is what the tests revealed. The day ended, that’s how it has been for billions of years, the sun shares its light and love to the other part of the planet, without a moments delay, every day. And leaves this part to retire into darkness and sleep and rest and make love and sin and crime, all in the name of night.

Had my father or I would have had the slightest idea that the patient who went as a case of liver disorder would become a severe psychiatric issue I would have never come alone. But now the ball was no more in the control court. He would shout and run; I would hold him and arrest him by sheer muscle power. He would yell at other women in the hospital assuming he was talking to his wife. He would not move a step until his wish permitted. To make him cross the rush traffic of the city was a task that demanded my soul to connect to God and ask for super powers of the angels. Today I can’t explain how I made him cling to my left arm with the back pack on my back and his luggage in my other hand and crossed the traffic where there were no lights for pedestrians to cross the busy roads. I can only say some God at some corner of the Universe made all that possible. The despair of the day, the exhaustion, the backache, the desperation to drop down dead in the comfort of the Volvo bus (tickets were not available in train on that day) that would take us to Vizag was my only wish left in life, I felt that way. We waited at the waiting room of the bus stop. The a.c. in the tiny waiting room comforted me like a lullaby that would lull me to sleep. But I had no luxury to attain with a patient who was a psychiatric case and could do anything any moment. He asked me to help him take to a place he could pee. I felt, the world was about to end and all my sin were coming to mock at me. All humans believe they can escape their sin, so committing one is easy. But a situation when life is neither dying nor livable makes one question and ponder if one has committed sins in the past life or even in this. Taking him to the loo meant crossing the busy road again, but a project is a project, certain deliverables are non-negotiable.   Back from the loo and the bus would be there in five minutes time, this meant that I would cross the road again, this time I sought help from a teen boy who was guarding the waiting room. We crossed over to the other side, this kid asked me ten rupees for the services he rendered, I couldn’t have been more amazed, I instantly gave him.

The bus was a semi sleeper a.c, I felt this was the end of all sorrows of my life. We would reach vizag early in the morning; take the next train to Rayagada and one more train from Rayagada to Balangir, simple!  But simple is not simple when complexity is the order of the day, when the planner has planned more experiences for you, when the upcoming hours could be the most delicate and demanding ones of your life, till date. The bus left Hyderabad city and started off on its way to Vizag. The road en-route Vizag was polished like a slate and the bus drove fast. For the first few minutes everything was normal, while I rested my ailing back against the seat. 

Lulu kaka suddenly shouted in the packed bus at the top of his voice,  most co passengers were occupied watching a Telugu movie, still many could see something weird happening. I was received by a thunderstorm with his loud yell. All my lethargy and wish to sleep like dead, vaporized in the heat of what he did. I tried my creative talents to calm him down; I talked about how he was supposed to listen to me, that he was ill, that we were in a bus travelling, that he should be sensitive to the fact that there were dozens of people who were getting affected by his demonic screams, nothing worked. 

The temperature of the drama was about to rise and the patience test was tailor made for me, I realized. The drama grew intense when he told me that his kids had been bitten by a dog and so he was kicking the dog away, and in a bid to drive the imaginary dog away he kicked the woman in the front seat from behind. The woman was carrying a baby in her lap and her husband seated next to her. The next few minutes promised that my life was screwed up of all possible happiness that I had accumulated after ages of penance and austerity in a span of thousands of years and hundreds of births. The protective husband grew to full power of his manhood. Nature and society had programmed him to act that way, uncaring about the fact the context here was different. Here there was no intent of harm or disrespect. His anger was on the boil. But never does the universe leave you unguarded when your intentions are aligned with the cosmos’ ways.  A young man, perhaps my age or a little more or less had, had a small interaction with me few minutes prior to this mishap. I had explained him the critical situation. He jumped into the scene like an angel and offered to replace the seat with his. He also convinced his friend to replace the seats with the married couple. Crises are those periods of ones’ life when the faith is shook from the roots or re-established with a cementing force that good exists in more ways than one identifies, until crisis strikes. This Good Samaritan, who barely spoke English and knew nothing about a language called Hindi, understood my situation like an old buddy, who knew me in and out, like some saint who had mastered the mundane and insignificant thing called life.

 The next two hours were spent in exhaustive efforts to control Lulu kaka’s erratic physical behavior. He would kick and I would hold his legs tight. He would shout and I would press my palm with full force on his lips to stop him.  He would endlessly, ceaselessly in his loud voice speak all nonsense he could, from politics to lessons on how to drive a car. From the love for his children to how bad the society has been to him. Every time the bus would run a little fast and sway to any side in the turns, he would grab the head rest of the seat in front, trying to save the bus from falling down and use his full energy to do so. I would dream, doing this may be he would start panting and feel exhausted and drop to sleep, nothing happened. With every passing minute he grew more violent, louder and used his physical prowess to overpower me.

The bus stopped at a place for dinner. I was hungry. I did not know how to manage to eat. Sure, that happened, I couldn’t eat. I regretted that I allowed him to get off the bus. The moment he alighted, his imaginary dogs chased him and he ran, shouting for help. I ran after him to grab him by neck punch on his face, slap tight and scorn him with my choicest slangs. I caught him, but did nothing. I knew I couldn’t. He was today a fallen Satan, but I had seen him in his days of glory. The real Bijan Mohanty, the manager, the family man, the organizer, the witty guy. Lulu kaka had this unique identity at home of being sent for errands as many times asked, he wouldn’t complain. I remember he never grumbled, never angry, an unbelievably cool one, hard to find breed. 

I had a hard time trying to convince him that the dogs had gone and he was safe, that I would keep him safe. He told me that his mother was in another bus, and we have to wait until that bus arrived. This time, I caught him by neck and dragged him into the bus, this time it was not anger, but I knew I didn’t have a chance if I went by moderate means. This enraged him and he started punching me, beating me. Somehow I managed to seat him on the seat. But times were going to be tougher. The Telugu picture had ended and there was silence in the a.c. coach. Every sound he made could be heard loud and clear in the both ends of the bus.  I was literally preparing a speech for anyone who would complain of this mess and would ask us to get off the bus. The whole bus would be disturbed by his noisy words and I would see co passengers grumbling, still I felt like the best humans on earth traveled with me in the bus that night, no one ever asked me to get off, no one gave a look which would make me feel looked down upon, no one told me a word. Lulu kaka, was adamant of getting off the bus, he pushed me, I pushed him back. He punched me, I punched him back. The whole of the time in the bus, my one leg arrested his legs, so that he didn’t kick the person in the front seat. My right hand glued to the window like an iron shaft, so that he had no scope of standing up and my left hand on his mouth, so that he wouldn’t shout. This lean man poured his full potential to defeat this enemy who had held him by brute force. 

We reached Vijaywada, it was half the journey, half the distance to Vizag still remained. For a moment it came to me to get off the bus and take a taxi to Balangir or stay in a hotel and leave the next morning. But 1.30 in the night, a sudden risky plan was unrealistic. In this whole time I had prayed to Gods, cursed them all, cried in my heart and thanked my fellow passengers. I stayed in that calisthenic position all night.  Not a moment of rest, not a drop of water to soothe my dry throat. Once I took the risk of fetching the bottle from the bag and gulped a little, also gave him, I knew he too would be thirsty. But taking a risk second time was not a viable option; especially the fear of letting him ease gave me goosebumps. Despite all my efforts, he would manage to kick, shout, and punch me, he tore my shirt apart. The moments of the night were like years, but wholesome indulgence in anything has the power to liberate you from the same, I had become like a log, which felt less pain, was now comfortable in that inhuman position and felt used to that situation. Hours passed, Vizag was now closer, I had prepared myself to book a cab and head straight to Balangir. 

The bus entered Vizag, it was the break of dawn, sun had come back to me. He left me when I left Hyderabad, he was back when I reached Vizag. It felt like, he was with a message that like life could be rude and terrible, but light never goes out.  Have patience for the tunnel to pass and there is light at the end of the tunnel. The morning light filled me with a belief that I am more than I have always known. I am not as mundane as people have known me, I can go farther than I believe. What had happened through the night was not an achievement by any measure but, what it left me with could be a forever treasure. I changed my mind; I strictly followed the original plan to take two more trains to Balangir. 

The journey continued with more dramatic things like boarding an auto, checking into a hotel to freshen up, boarding the train to Rayagada and the last train to Balangiir from Rayagada. Each of these offered me magnificent memories for life. In less than twenty four hours I had mastered the art of patience in real crisis with patience and calmness, though afraid inside but without the slightest trace of panic. We reached Balangir. People disbelieved that this was the same man who had left to be treated for some liver damage. They couldn’t imagine how I could have done all this all alone. But I knew I wasn’t alone- a constant sense of someone somewhere seeing all this and walking me through reverberated all through my being, all the while.

Lulu kaka was readmitted in to the same hospital on 15th Aug, this time we chose to fly, he had by then recovered of all withdrawal symptoms. And the accompaniment attendance had increased from just me, to his wife and his aunt. I stayed with them for a week and came back to be replaced by my father. He was discharged after fifteen days.

Two months later in October I was in Balangir for Dussehra. Lulu kaka asked me to take him to the bank, he wanted to close his account, he had four hundred and seventy rupees. He withdrew that money and closed the account. He unbelievably gave two hundred rupees to me; it was like offering half of a person’s total asset to someone else. I refused but he insisted, I took it.

Forty seven year old Lulu Kaka passed away in Jan 2014, survived by his mother, his wife, a son, a daughter and other members of his extended family.

Bijan Mohanty, Rest in Peace.

  


Monday, 1 June 2015

The Wrinkled Angel


A man associated with a travelling business is a lucky fellow. As long as he believes he is. If fatigue and tiredness and impending work at the work station do not give you nightmares then travelling can be really cool. Especially when your expenses are taken care of by your company,  seeing new people on the streets of an untraded town, checking out the booty of attractive women, the glow boards, the young couples, the nasty canals which stink of the city’s sins against the environment. All are lively like a strip tease show in an American bar. 
  
The fast taxis and cars drive you to your destination, and work place and hotel and airport and so many places you are supposed to go. But walking down the streets connects you way more to the new land than any other means. Though, I would personally want the rickshaws no more existed because of the inhumanity it offers to the puller, still as a matter of a selfish benefit, the rickshaw provides you with the best experience to go around a city. It’s not fast, it’s not slow. It maintains the speed, your eyes and brain need to work in harmony to register a sight.

I finish up my day’s work and walk towards Sawar gate. That’s precisely where I get a bus to Dadar, Bombay ( I have absolutely no issues saying Mumbai, but I grew up saying Bombay and I like it that way). Technically given to the day’s work and the fatigue it offers I should be sanely taking an auto. But, who cares about sanity, more specifically when insanity is the only excitement of your life.
The sweat dripping all across my body, the shirt now stuck to my skin like I was born with it. Thirsty as if the oceans weren’t enough to quench me. I ask many people on the way to ensure I was following the right direction. Hailing from Odisha, you are used to a more polite way of conversing, in contradiction to a Delhi way of rough and loud behavior. Talking to people on the streets of Pune, I am reminded of the same Odisha way.  

I had started from a place in Nabi peth, I had walked through for some time on the road and reached Sena dutt chowk. In a cross checking attempt to ensure following the right direction I paused to ask someone. Before I could find anyone who could be my guiding star, a lady beautiful like an angel ( I have never seen an angel) sought some help from me. She spoke Marathi. My innocent reaction less reaction educated her that I didn’t get a word she said. She quickly switched to Hindi. She wanted me to help her cross the busy traffic. Life was paused for a while, the din of the traffic, the blowing horns, the whistle of the dark skinned traffic policeman, the flashy cars, and the heated pitch road. All things abruptly faded before the wrinkles on the hands and face of this angel. They were louder than horns of the traffic. The beauty she embodied was emanating from the smile on her face, the politeness in her approach. The task to cross the road  for her was higher than the mountains and deeper than the polar crevasses. The whole day I had spent in an old age home, talking to the staff, the old inmates and the students of gerontology and geriatric care. The experiences were fresh and still breathing in my memory.

But a monitoring visit to a partner NGO doesn’t let you see much beyond the progress against the goals. But this old angel’s helplessness at the traffic was a bolt from the blue. It left me in wonders and the reality of human life, bare and naked.  My confidence of being whoever I was was now in tatters. The old lady had never wanted to be old, but she was. She must have crossed such busy roads a million times in her life, taught her children and grandchildren to walk. But that didn’t stop her from getting old, from falling from a strong body to a weak existence.


I caught her wrinkled soft hand and walked her across the road. She smiled back and said thank you. I smiled and glistened in pride almost an Oscar for me. 

Saturday, 11 April 2015

Like or Love?


He really likes me, said the teenager girl to her friend. But does he love you? Well I didn't ask him that. O girl! Grow up. You are already sixteen, it’s time to have a boyfriend, have sex, go around places on his bike grabbing the pillion seat and have fun.  Look at me; I have the entire world in in my fist enclosed. My boyfriend loves me and says it on Facebook, loud and clear. Copy that!

Roger!

Okay! So let’s for a moment rethink and logically break down the conversation between these two young ladies above.
The matter of contention is the use of two very naively used words which otherwise define everything of the mortal human lives.  Like and Love.  So, what’s the fuss? I like ice cream, I love ice cream. More or less just the same.  Well, one more; I like traveling, I love traveling, again no difference.

Still one more, I like her I love her. Now stop! Here is something worth noticing. Do we see the difference? I am sure you are not impressed. We are all religiously aware of the difference between like and love, when the context changes from objects to persons.  Liking ice creams and loving ice creams are pretty much the same but liking someone and loving someone are not the same.  “And that, love is more powerful, placed higher than likeness and love has greater force than likeness and also love is more divine than likeness and love is deeper whereas likeness is shallow”. This precise piece of gyan is as old as the stories of devils being defeated by the good ones, after the good ones have suffered for ages.

So, coming to the origin where we started, what is that I am suggesting? Well, I see that we have been fooling ourselves, happily convinced that being loved or loving someone is of greater worth than liking or being liked. I disapprove, humbly and deliberately and logically. Likeness is truth, apolitical and selfless. Love comes combined with selfish desires. Ego oriented calculations and many more hidden agenda. Likeness has the power to help the person one likes as selflessly as the treed drops the fruit for the passerby, without a thought to get thanks in reply.  The pro-love philosophy has thrived and survived all this time because we all live in denial. And it’s not a culture or lifestyle or socialization, it’s a dire indispensable need.  The need to glorify something as selfish as love serves our purpose of survival, works as the preservative for our ailing hearts by keeping the illusion intact. It works wonderfully in making us overlook all things we had always known were not true but , the fear of truth and its revelation is powerful enough to keep us in denial, eyes closed.

Likeness still continues to be likeness unaffected by human conspiracy of controlling people around, the establishment of the triumph of the ego and all things with many shades hidden than revealed. With likeness one can be as honest as the smile on the face of an infant. With likeness its admiring people for absolutely who they are. In likeness there is no trace of vested interests. In likeness there is no hidden agenda to dominate a partner. In likeness you have no calculations no make before saying, I like you.  But, I love you has to go through hyper emotional arithmetic.  We probably, love our college professor way more than our boyfriend/girlfriend/husband/wife because respect for him/her is holy and likeness comes easy and somewhere it reaches the level of love without being polluted as it never becomes love. It stays likeness.

Liking someone comes with an innate ability to respect the person’s individuality, a sense of each other’s space and more terrifically, admiration without intent. In this category love fails like a child who wants to fly and jumps off the rooftop, only to break a limb. Love never experiences its presence without the pre-conditions of jealousy and unquenchable want to get back. It’s always a barter of give and take.

Love travels through its course of high and low intensity. Sometimes its surrender sometimes its “do not step on my space”. Love has to taste the salts of possessiveness, mockery and prejudice. Likeness continues to be what it is, just likeness. The people we like in our lives have rarely turned averse but we can name more sorrows to love than even hate.


The sanctity and the beauty of life are in keeping a sense of likeness towards all things around us. And love, let it take its own course, be immortalized or die a natural death. 

Thursday, 26 March 2015

The Summer Breeeze of Baripada

Growing up in Baripada was never an advantage but a high privilege. The thin line difference between advantage and privilege is that, advantage is what you are supposed to have and privilege is what you want to have. Somewhat like a highly longed relationship.
A town which one can go around in less than 45 mins is smaller than small.
Baripada by crow fly route is less than 50km from the sea and by road its 72km from the sea. But, the winds of the sea prefer to take the straight route crossing over the plains and collide against the high hills of the Simlipal National Park of Mayurbhanj district. Mayurbhanj is the largest district of the Odisha state and Baripada is its headquarter.
Baripada, due to its close proximity to the sea is sticky and humid for almost 6 months of the year. I hate this part, it makes the skin itch and personality irritating. The whole day is hot and moist, makes you lethargic and exhausted. Sometimes unwanted prickly heat make life more miserable. Cycling back from school and again setting your back on the same cycle seat in an one hour’s difference would even turn the rishi into a sinner. All bad on an Indian summer day.
But, days don't last forever, they subside when the sun sleeps calling all birds to accompany him. This is the time when the suburban Baripada resident knows life will have a reason to smile and say Aah! The breeze welcomes the sun down hours like a devoted wife waiting desperately for the tired husband to come back after a hard day’s work, to comfort the man.
The breeze starts slow like a sensuous love making scene from a Hollywood movie. The senses start approving of the soothing sensation. The heat, the prickly heat, the stink of the underarms, the sticky dust from the days work on the skin, everything is still there, still bothering. But, now they are less loud, less active and less present. Or may be fully present but just a little shy in the presence of the lady breeze.
Now she starts getting a little wilder and even more active, playing the senses to swoon of all the people in the suburbs. She does this for the next many hours until, the late night moon shines his silver glow, telling her to leave, saying that she has served her part, balmed the victims of the day, now the sun was on his way to scorch the sinners again.
She leaves a little before day break. Most wouldn’t ever know what she had done to lull all to sleep. She had caressed child and old alike. Slithered through stinky gullies and wiped the foul out. She just does her part and leaves without a trace.
Baripada wakes up to its daily chores and curses the sun. I wish sometimes Baripada stopped for a moment to think what made last night’s sleep, sleep.

Saturday, 28 February 2015

I stood on the lane that stretched out to the exit gate of the Shanti kunj Gayatri Ashram, Haridwar. Unaware of a standard Indian height man right before her she ran into me and almost let my fone fall off my hands. I readily turned towards her to see who could be so stupid! She was all sorry and apologetic. I had no reason to be angry. I am generally not. She walked out, I too walked out.

I looked for an auto or a vikram to take me back to Har ki Paudi. In a five minute time I found a vikram who was all set to take me, provided all other seats were filled up. We gotta wait.

Look who’s come, there comes she again. Taking the seat before me, beaming right into my being, her eyes compassionate and demeanor homely. She had perhaps forgotten me in this gap of 20 mins. After all who cares to remember such a short stint in one of the epicenters of the great Indian crowd? But, she hadn't forgotten, I felt good. In fact attached, as if world was really small and all beings knew each other.

She was vocal, she asked me to confirm if I was the same guy who she had run in few minutes back. I nodded in agreement. My smile constant and unaffected by the honking vikrams passing by. She was remarkably inquisitive about me. She had many questions for me. I felt special. I answered all her queries. I told I had come from Delhi, bit didn't belong there. I enjoyed two days of week offs unlike most in India who had just a Sunday in the face of week off. So, I would pack my backpack with dirty clothes and wear even dirtier ones (why waste clean clothes in an unknown land when you can wear those for Monday morning office). I traveled because I liked travelling. Traveled alone because I liked it that way, when I didn't have the right companion or group. Traveled alone because the agenda of travel is not always to have fun. Traveled alone because sometimes all alone, it’s so much fun.

Now, it was my turn to shoot questions. She said she was from Chhattisgarh. Where in Chhattisgarh? Jagdalpur. By now my curiosity and joy was swelling. In life it’s interesting to note how places you have never been seem and sound like nectar to your ears. As if you always knew that land, as if you owned certain things there. As if there stayed people who revered you, loved you. The short and logical answer that explains the curiosity and joy upon hearing the names of these places is that you knew people who belonged to those places, those people who you loved and they loved you back.

I still enquired, where in Jagdalpur? Near to Moti talab para. This question somewhat sounded cheesy to her and she retorted with a top up of enquiry more than inquisitiveness in her voice. She asked, did I belong to Jagdalpur? No, my good friend is from Jagdalpur.

In the last two minutes I was thinking more about Jagdalpur and the people I knew from Jagadalpur. I realized I was barely appreciating the attention of this woman and almost engrossed imagining the streets and nooks and crannies of this small town. The school, where it would have been located, how kids would have conveyed to the school, by cycle, on foot, dads took them to schools on scooters or rickshaws? The days of rain and the wintry nights, how would all things be in that place, what sort of houses people had and what rituals and beliefs they followed. How school going girls tackled senior boys in the streets and how big brothers came to rescue. I wished I knew everything. 

By now our power packed Vikram had cruised its bumpy ride in to the city. I was out from my imaginary rummaging of Jagdalpur. She alighted a mile before Har ki Puadi. I wished to make a last eye contact. I avoided.

She made a slow movement out of the vikram, she was almost sixty and her husband who sat beside her was perhaps her age or a few years senior.

She left with him and I left with the vikram.